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”Frihetsdräkten” eller Konsten att klä sig fri:   - en undersökning av den kvinnliga klädedräktens förändringsmöjligheter via artiklar i dagstidningar och tidskrifter från åren 1896 och 1897.
Karlstad University, Faculty of Arts and Education.
2012 (Swedish)Independent thesis Basic level (degree of Bachelor), 10 credits / 15 HE creditsStudent thesisAlternative title
”The Freedom Suit” : - an investigation of the possible forms of expression when changing the female dress through articles published in 1896 and 1897 in Swedish daily papers and magazines. (English)
Abstract [en]

Abstract

 

The purpose of this paper is to put the question of the change of the female dress in relation to the predominant view of the women by the end of the 19th century. The paper analyses the fixing of the boundaries for possible forms of expression within the range of female gender identity from aspects such as aesthetics, freedom and health. Through a close reading of articles published in 1896 and 1897 in Swedish daily papers and magazines, with focus on the lectures held in Sweden by the Norwegian dress-reformer Kristine Dahl and the meetings arranged by Svenska Dräktreformföreningen regarding a shorter length of the skirt, this paper investigates the issues and divergence that arose when changing the female dress. The paper runs the hypothesis that the issues and divergence that arose have something to say about where the boundaries were fixed concerning how far the meaning of the female gender identity could be expanded. The analysis uses the theory about the performativity of gender by Judith Butler. The theory gives the opportunity to investigate the fixing of the boundaries regarding how gender should be expressed to achieve comprehensibility: how far can you go when challenging contemporary norms of gender expression and how can you explain the difficulties that arise when you try to expand the meaning of the female gender identity?

 

To some extent the analysis confirms the starting point of this paper: the difficulties that arose may have something to do with the extension of the female gender identity. For example there was evidence that the question of desire in Butler´s theory was playing a part when interpreting the reform ideas as being ambiguous in its gender expression. Prevailing ideals of fashion along with the ideal female silhouette also turned out to be an obstructing factor.

 

This investigation has found a rather benevolent attitude in the articles towards the change of the outer dress and the proposal concerning a shorter length of the skirt. This separates this study from what has generally been found in other countries when dress reformers tried to change the outer dress. Changing the outer dress in England and the US drew upon a harsh resistance and strong reactions in the public opinion and the daily papers.

 

Place, publisher, year, edition, pages
2012. , 42 p.
Keyword [en]
reform dress, 1890s, skirt-length, women clothing, dress reform, dress history, aesthetics, freedom, health, fashion
Keyword [sv]
reformdräkt, Svenska Dräktreformföreningen, Butler, kvinnosyn, Sverige, sekelskiftet, 1890-talet, mode, kjollängd, estetik, frihet, hälsa, "Frihetsdräkten", dräkthistoria
National Category
History of Ideas
Identifiers
URN: urn:nbn:se:kau:diva-15081Local ID: IVA C-2OAI: oai:DiVA.org:kau-15081DiVA: diva2:560368
Subject / course
History of Ideas
Uppsok
Humanities, Theology
Supervisors
Examiners
Available from: 2012-10-22 Created: 2012-10-02 Last updated: 2012-10-22Bibliographically approved

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  • vancouver
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  • de-DE
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  • en-US
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  • nn-NO
  • nn-NB
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  • Other locale
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Output format
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